A deeply savoury, umami-rich gravy with fluffy suet dumplings — a simple, comforting dish that brings back memories of school dinners.

1. To make the gravy, roughly chop the onion, celery, carrot, parsnip and leek and lightly crush the garlic cloves. There’s no need to be precise — these are for flavour only.

2. Place all the vegetables and bay leaves in a large pot and cover with 2 litres of water. Cut a circle of parchment paper as wide as the pot, and cut a hole in the middle, lay it directly on the surface.

3. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 2 hours. Strain through a sieve, discarding the vegetables, and set the stock aside until needed. You won’t use all of it for this recipe, but it keeps well in the fridge for up to 5 days, or can be frozen for up to 3 months.

4. To make the roux, heat 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil or butter in a saucepan over a medium heat. Once hot, add 2 teaspoons of plain flour and whisk continuously for about a minute until the mixture forms a smooth paste.

5. To make the gravy, slowly pour the vegetable stock, a little at a time, whisking constantly to avoid lumps. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until the gravy thickens to your liking.

6. Stir in the Marmite, starting with 1 teaspoon and adding more to taste. The gravy should be deeply savoury with a rich, dark colour.

7. Mix the suet with the self-raising flour in a bowl. Add the chopped parsley and 3 tablespoons of cold water, a little at a time, stirring until the mixture just comes together into a soft dough. Divide into small balls — roughly golf ball sized.

8. Drop the dumplings into the simmering gravy, cover with a lid, and cook on a low heat for 15–17 minutes until the dumplings are puffed and cooked through. Do not lift the lid during cooking.

9. Serve piping hot.